How to use Korg CA-20 (Rich Mao) posted on rmmb

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF TUNER CHARACTERISTICS/TERMINOLOGY

First, every electronic tuner is calibrated by default to the note A equal
to a vibration frequency of 440 hertz.

Use the tuner in automatic mode.

It turns out that when you blow the "A" on the bagpipe chanter, when played into the tuner (the bottom of the chanter from about one-two inches away from the tuner's microphone)...the tuner will display the nearest chromatic scale note being played as B flat or A sharp (synonym for the same note)....some where... usually for modern chanters about A sharp plus about 20 cents (on the display scale..remember all the display scale needle readings must be interpreted relative to the chromatic note being displayed on the face of the tuner [e.g. -40 cents when the chromatic B is being displayed on the face of the tuner is actually sharper than +40 cents if the chromatic Bflat is being displayed on the face of the tuner]).

Chromatic A sharp is 466 hertz...that's where that number comes from. Please note also that Asharp 466 is 440 hertz (concert A) plus 26. So you don't have to SET anything...it is naturally built into the tuner.

TUNING PRECONDITIONS

I assume you can blow a steady pressure/pitch for one note on the
pipes...through cycles of blowing and squeezing... if not.... learn how to
do that first (developing bodily strength and coordination, takes weeks of
diligent training)... otherwise if you are blowing unsteadily... the pitch of the notes you are blowing on the chanter will vary... such that fine/precise tuning makes no sense... and is futile.

Second... blow the pipe chanter reed (with or without drones) for at least
10-15 minutes... the amount of moisture in the reed increases to a relatively stable plateau as you blow... and affects the pitch... generally making it flatter... you need to achieve some stability in the drifting pitch before you can seriously try to tune the chanter..... If you can't blow steadily for 15 minutes... then you are back to square 1.

GETTING YOUR CHANTER TO TUNE TO ITSELF USING THE KORG CA-20...

The more a beginner you are... the more you should consider doing this with your drones off (but you should strive do it with full drones going)...Play a tune (e.g. Scotland the Brave) in front of your tuner (your tuner is on, isn't it?) with your chanter about 1/2 foot away to one foot from the tuner...closer is all right.......when you reach a High A... keep playing that High A (at a constant pressure.and getting a pure tone) and observe both the needle reading and the note reading on the meter...

The meter note being displayed should read B flat (or A sharp on the Korg CA-10)... (same note) because though our music is written such that we call our chanter tonic note "A" the general pitch of the pipes over the decades has risen above concert A (440)... and B flat is right and proper for current day tuning... Now take note of the needle reading (say, plus 10 cents, relative to Asharp)...

Now, without changing pressure ... switch to blowing Low A... (all your
chanter notes should be being blown at the same pressure, and, in my opinion that pressure should be whatever it takes to get good clear high hand notes..too many pipers drop blowing pressure for low hand notes.. making reliable chanter/drone tuning impossible or at least a nightmare)

Goal: Wherever the High A of the chanter needles out to...the Low A on the chanter when played should needle out to the same place...(i.e. your target is for the notes to be an octave apart)..

If the High A is sharper (to the right of the Low A reading, as you face the tuner) than the Low A pull the reed out a bit adding a bit of hemp to the bottom of the staple to keep the reed in place.

Because the air column for the High A is so much shorter than for the Low
A...equal changes in length affect the High A, proportionately more than the Low A and the readings will change at different rates and converge onto one reading.

If the High A is flatter (to the left of the low a needle setting) then sink
the reed a bit... (do not force it in too hard, it's better to remove hemp from the bottom of the reed.... especially so if the copper staple is a bent sheet as opposed to a seamless tube.... because the sinking in can squeeze the diameter of the staple smaller and affect the tone of the chanter reed adversely)

Once the two notes are reading the same needle setting (say, plus 15
cents)... the chanter is in tune with itself... and you can start setting the drones to the same needle reading (need I say at the same pressure?).

You will probably need to go through this tuning cycle in another 10-15
minutes or so. When the chanter pitch change stabilizes for a period of time.never change the chanter reed depth.or be so foolish as to take the chanter reed out of the chanter between playing sessions.

Comments: This is not to say that you are in tune with an arbitrary band
setting... especially if the band Low and High A's are set at a different
pitch than you came up with in the above exercise.

This is not to say that the rest of the notes of the scale are in
tune/balance/proportion using the bagpipe scale (different than Western
music's chromatic scale) relationships to Low A.

This is not to say that the chanter is tuned to/needles out to where the
Korg tuner says zero...

Each of the above topics would require another explanation

NEXT, TUNE DRONES TO THE CHANTER

Once the two needle settings are the same...While you are blowing the full pipes
on some tune, have a friend position the microphone of the tuner over each of the drone tops (remember one or so inches) and adjust the drone lengths so that their sound reading needles out to the same pegging place the High A and Low A notes came out to.

The reason I say to use a friend .. is so that you can maintain your regular playing/blowing pressure (the same pressure that you used when the High A and Low A's were brought into line) while the drone pitches/length are being brought into alignment. The alternative when you tune totally by yourself is that you have to learn to keep pressure/chanter pitch constant (both through blowing and
arm pressures) while you are reaching around and tuning the drones. and/or shifting the drones around so that they can be read by the Korg Tuner (I usually put the tuner at drone height on a mantle or something and flip my drones forward)

Comments: Use the tuner both to tune and to train your ear as to what being in tune sounds like.. Listen for the throbbing, wah, wah to disappear. As you bring one drone in alignment with a previously tuned drone. Listen for the drone to become synchronous with the Low A of the chanter. Most pipers tune the outside tenor to the chanter Low and High A's and find that they can tune the bass drone and then the middle tenor to the outside tenor.rather than keeping tuning/referring to the chanter Low A. Your goal should be freedom from the tuner.

Optional: Some people don't like to tune to a variance (e.g. adjusting the
needles to e.g. plus 22 cents) and will increase the calibration of the
basic true chromatic A to about 444 or 445. This in turn changes the chromatic zero point of the A sharp scale so that now when you blow High A, Low A and the drones the needle pegs out at the green/zero point when the chanter Low A High A and drones are in tune....
If you add the 26 (remember the 26 from the paragraph above?) to the new calibration (say chromatic A now is set to 445) you will get what frequency setting your pipes have set the PIPING A to...(in this example 445 plus 26 or 471)....

BTW, I don't like to recalibrate/displace the concert A setting because the calibration never stays constant from session to session..ambient
temperature, sunlight, humidity can change where the Low and High A come into tune. Further, you might forget you changed the calibration and if you tune a friend's guitar, for example.. That guitar (or any other chromatic instrument) will be tuned incorrectly (The Korg CA-20 retains/remembers any calibration change despite having being turned off in the interim. The older Korg CA-10 resets to A=440 every time it is powered up.) Also there is no guarantee you will be able to hit an exact zero displacement.

TUNING THE CHANTER'S SCALE

First read thoroughly Ewan MacPherson's treatise on tuning at

Ewan MacPherson's Hot Piping Page
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~emacpher/pipes/acoustics/pipescale.html
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~emacpher/pipes/acoustics/chromtune.html

This is where I am getting the displacements mentioned below.

Wherever the High and Low A common needle reading is.the notes of the
chanter should tune on their respective chromatic note scales as follows.

Chanter Low G, reads as a chromatic Gsharp on the tuner, strive for -4 cents below the High and Low A common needle reading

Chanter Low A, reads as a chromatic Bflat on the tuner, strive for 0 cent
differential from the High and Low A common needle reading

Chanter B, reads as chromatic C on the tuner, strive for +4 cent
differential from the High and Low A common needle reading

Chanter C, reads as chromatic D on the tuner, strive for -14 cent
differential from the High and Low A common needle reading

Chanter D, reads as chromatic Eflat on the tuner, strive for -2 cent
differential from the High and Low A common needle reading

Chanter E, reads as chromatic F on the tuner, strive for +2 cent
differential from the High and Low A common needle reading

Chanter F, reads as chromatic G on the tuner, strife for -16 cent
differential from the High and Low A common needle reading

Chanter High G, reads as a chromatic Gsharp on the tuner, strive for -4
cents below the High and Low A common needle reading

Chanter High A, reads as a chromatic Bflat on the tuner, strive for 0 cent
differential from the High and Low A common needle reading

Hopefully the note is sharp to the desired differential and you can tape the note downward. If the note is persistently flat to the desired
differential.through several different chanter reeds of the same maker or
different makers. consider enlarging/undercutting the note hole with, say, a small round file or woodcarving tool.

Throughout this process you must be blowing at constant pressure the same as when you established High and Low A common needle readings and the same as when you tuned the drones. LISTEN and LEARN.. If your drones are really stable.. Harmonics of each of the notes, especially E, C, D, F when they are in tune with the drones will sound louder/enhanced/fuller because of harmonic multiples of the chanter note being in synchronization with/reinforced by/equal to harmonic multiples of the drones (or no worse than being in simple numeric ratios with the drone frequencies (chordal relationships)). Ultimately your ear will be a
better guide than the tuner numbers above. (BTW if you can't keep constant blowing pressure at the same pressure as when you play. all of the above is worthless to you)

You will have to cycle through this procedure a couple of times.because tape onone note can affect the tuning of other notes.or at least will require other notes to be taped to stay in chordal relationship with the note you've changed.

Play slow airs and revel in the sound of bagpipes in tune.filling your room.
Expect to retune every 15 minutes or so. Learn how long it takes for your
pipes to stabilize their pitch changes. Tuning will be made easier. by storing the chanter reed under chanter cap between blowing sessions..by blowing consistently everyday for half hour or so (to minimize/stabilize moisture changes).When you KNOW what depth your chanter reed should be to stay stable in pitch for the longest time.. don't change the chanter reed depth setting. If you leave the pipes sit for a couple of days and the chanter starts out sharpish and whiney..PLAY the pipes back into tune. don't chase it.

If you ever change chanter reeds. you'll probably have to strip every piece
of tape and start over.

KORG CA-20 vs. CA-10 COMMENTS

What I like about the Korg CA-20 is the price (about $20) versus value. The needle is just enough less touchy than a full analog needle that if you have verrrry minor variations in pitch...the needle setting remains steady....and your audience will be happy.

Korg CA-20 takes smaller batteries than CA-10. and is smaller (business card case vs. cigarette pack size). Korg CA-20 has automatic battery saving power down after, I think, 20 minutes. Korg CA-20 shows Bflat, Korg CA-10 shows Asharp for our chanter A. Korg CA-20 remembers any Concert A displacement you made from power up to power up. CA-10 resets to A=440 hz every time. Korg CA10 is easier to stand up on a shelf.

 

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